'I am a rebel but not an outsider.' - Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood's design emphasise rebel and anti-society in order to get freedom, so she use Punk as a mean to make her design in 1970-1980. When Punk power had declined to react against the mainstream fashion, she realised that she could not use Punk as the theme of design forever. Therefore, she wanted to change her direction.
In the mid 1980s, she started look into history and literature. When she study about the 18th century fashion in the museum, she noticed that the designers of 18th century had a drastically different approach to fashion. They freely made folds and drapes that moved when the person move. This idea had inspired Vivienne. After that, Vivienne's design emphasize the forms and shapes that make a woman feminine. And she do think that a lady should not hide their body figure. And overall the 1990s, historicism has become the dominant theme. All kinds of uniforms can be her inspirations such as regalia for the Queen, tartan for the romantic Scots, safari suits for shooting tigers, uniforms for soldiers and sailors, students, scouts, sportsmen and policemen.
Becasue her inspiration is come from traditional elements, she does not need to make outrageous items of rebellion. However, she uses a much gentle way to show her rebellion, that is "banter". It means that she use traditional element to make her design to show the new look. And this look show the humor.
"Banter" is a skill that mostly used in the literature. For example, English Writer Shakespeare like to use this skill in his work.
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